Bakuchiol: A Look at Its Growing Popularity and Uses in Anti-aging Cosmetics

Created on 02.22

Abstract

The global beauty and cosmetics industry is being driven forward by two key priorities: clean beauty on one hand and proof of effectiveness on the other.Bakuchiolis an active ingredient that has been traditionally derived from plants is a major trend in formulation labs around the globe. Its effectiveness as a retinol alternative and minimal skin irritation have made bakuchiol an increasingly popular ingredient. Due to its characteristics of similar efficacy as retinol, and minimal skin irritation, this article will discuss the biological origins, core mechanisms of action, formulation strategies, and the opportunity for market growth in the future, based on the latest scientific research and market data available.

Bakuchiolis a monoterpene phenol compound, which has been mainly obtained from the dried, mature fruits of the plant Psoralea corylifolia L. (Leguminoseae). Its usage dates back to ancient times and was widely used to cure skin ailments in Asian herbal medicinal practices.

Phytochemical studies in modern times have demonstrated that bakuchiol possesses an active profile. Bakuchiol’s molecular structure resembles that of retinol with similar stereochemistry. It binds to retinoid acid receptors on skin cells to initiate a cascade of anti-ageing signaling pathway(s). This naturally-similar mimic property enables bakuchiol to achieve a similar biological function as retinol in the absence of a synthetic chemical process. Bakuchiol was registered as a new cosmetic ingredient in China in 2022, allowing the use of its leave-on products at a maximum concentration of 2%. Through such registration, the legal use of Bakuchiol in leave-on products in the local Chinese/Australia marketplace has been established.

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RegardingBakuchiolresearch, the number of in-vitro pieces of research and clinical productions has substantially grown in the previous years, and its method of operation has been shown and explained.

The number of in vitro studies as well as the amount of clinical work that have been conducted regarding the Bakuchiol compound have steadily increased over the past several years, and the mechanism by which Bakuchiol operates has now become clearly understood!

1. Anti-aging and Collagen Regeneration

The data from the study indicates that bakuchiol promotes upregulation of the gene expression for both type I and type III collagen together with proteoglycans in the dermal region, respectively. In a randomized, double blinded, controlled clinical study conducted for a period of 12 weeks, individuals who used a 0.5% bakuchiol preparation two times daily did not demonstrate statistically significant improvement in the appearance of fine lines on their faces, wrinkles or skin firmness compared to the group of individuals using a 0.5% retinol preparation. This demonstrated the use of bakuchiol within the photoaging resistant skincare sector.

2. Anti-inflammation and Acne Intervention

Bakuchiol shows high anti-inflammatory responses compared to retinol, which is known to cause inflammation, since it does not cause inflammatory reactions itself Unlike retinol, which has been linked to many cases of inflammatory skin reactions, bakuchiol has a strong anti-inflammatory effect. Further research has shown, in vitro, that bakuchiol could significantly inhibit nitric oxide (NO) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) production by lipopolysaccharide (LPS) stimulated macrophages. The bacteriostatic effects of bakuchiol on Cutibacterium acnes have been tested on a dose-dependent basis; thus, bakuchiol represents a better option of treating acne, as well as treating inflammation-associated pigmentation following acne breakouts.

3. Antioxidation and Barrier Compatibility

Due to its fat-soluble nature, bakuchiol acts as a fat-soluble antioxidant and effectively scavenges DPPH free radicals and protects keratinocytes from oxidative damage caused by exposure to UV light. In addition to this, skin irritation and sensitivity studies conducted through patch tests have demonstrated that the skin irritation index of bakuchiol is significantly lower than that of traditional retinol. The introduction of bakuchiol does not alter the normal lipid structure of the skin; therefore, it maintains a healthy skin barrier function, and bakuchiol is universally compatible with all individuals (including those with sensitive skin).

Formulation and Use of Bakuchiol & Retinol: Issues Associated. In the field of cosmetic formulation, the use of bakuchiol as an ingredient has resolved the previous 'efficacy versus tolerance' paradox previously faced by formulators when trying to develop products containing retinol.

Photostability and Formulation Flexibility

Traditional retinol is photolabile and has the ability to degrade primarily when exposed to UV radiation, thus limiting its use with daytime products. Whereas, bakuchiol is considered to possess a high degree of ultraviolet (UV) stability. Because of this, formulators are able to basically put bakuchiol in anything, day or night, based on the burning of the candle at both ends.

2. Synergy and Molecular Modification

The new direction for the formulation has moved from the incorporation of a single active ingredient to that of a composite-based system; therefore, bakuchiol is predominantly mixed with peptides and vitamin C derivatives, or hyaluronic acids. Specifically, the combination provides threefold benefits: anti-aging, brightening, and moisturizing. Pharmaceutical companies have begun using innovative processes on chemicals that compose their pharmaceutical products. In particular, the formation of bakuchiol derivatives by esterification is expected to further improve the transdermal absorption rate and bioavailability of bakuchiol. This would provide an important route to develop highly effective products with bakuchiol compound.

Market Overview - Expanding Globally and Exploring Opportunities for Growth

Based on research from numerous industry analysts, the bakuchiol market is experiencing rapid growth at the global level.

Market Size and Regional Dynamics/Patterns

Market research organizations expect that the volume of the international bakuchiol market will grow at a compounded annual rate (CAGR) of over 9% during the next 8 years of the forecast period. North America and Europe are the largest regional markets because of the strong belief in the notion of "clean beauty". Asia-Pacific, including China is the rising fastest-growing (new) regional market, driven by the high level of importance consumers place on sensitive skin care and the awareness of the Chinese herbal medicine culture.

Demand Driving Factors

Consumer Side: There has been a recent surge in the demand for products that provide anti-aging benefits while being devoid of the side effects associated with retinol.

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